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Traditional kundan jewellery has stones encrusted on one side and colorful and intricate meenakari on the reverse.
The entire technique of Kundankari lies in the skilful setting of gems and stones in gold, which is rarely solid.
Holes are cut for the gems, engraving is carried out and the pieces are enamelled.
The core of the ornament is made out of lac, a natural resin. Later, lac is inserted into the hollow parts and is then visible from the front, through the holes left for the gems. Highly refined gold or kundan is used to cover the lac, and gems are then pushed into the kundan. To increase the strength of the joints and to give it a smooth finish, more kundan is applied. Kundankari is such a specialized work that it is carried out by groups of craftsmen, each carrying out a specific task. The chiterias make the basic design, the ghaarias are responsible for engraving and making holes, meenakari or enamelling is done by the enameller, with the goldsmith takes care of the kundan, or gold.
The jadiyas, or stone setters, set stones such as jade, agate, garnet, emerald, rock crystal, topaz, amethyst, and spinel into kundan.
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